Appropriation -The process of taking possession or use of without giving credit, profit, or acknowledgment to the source, as in the case of the apparel industry’s co-opting of subcultural styles (Kaiser).

The image on the left is from an ad campaign for the clothing line Cross Colours. Cross Colours was one of the earliest companies to promote and capitalize on "gang wear." By analyzing the look, the advertising campaign and the influence of gang wear on the fashion industry, we begin to get a sense of the complexity of the concept of appropriation.

The concept of Appropriation draws our attention to relations of power between social groups. ..Signs and sign systems (for example, individual garments and entire "looks") circulate through and around these groups, influencing meanings in complicated ways. When considering these dynamics one must ask: Exactly what kinds of meanings are being reproduced in this system?; Who gets to appropriate and who is appropriated? Does this borrowing of signs encourage understanding or, does it simply affirm notions of "otherness"?; And finally, who benefits from this borrowing of signs?

Critiquing the Cross Colours image:

Through the work of Cultural Critic Roland Barthes and others, we know that when text is presented along with an image it is often used to pin down a preferred reading of the image. In advertising, this dynamic--whereby text pins down a preferred meaning within an image--often becomes critical, as images can otherwise be open to several different, and even contradictory, interpretations. The Cross Colours image to the left is a good example of this. In it we see a black man's bare chest. The man is young and his chest, neck and arms are well-muscled. We do not see his face, and he does not look at us (through the camera) as we gaze upon him. By way of this positioning we are not allowed to know this man--as we would be if we were given access to his face--but rather we are invited to consume him only. We--the viewer--are in the position of power as the voyeur looking in on the vulnerable object of our gaze. We might also argue that the partially nude black male body in the image is sexualized through its pose, with arms raised, head twisted back, and glistening skin (sweat? oil?).

Now roll your cursor over the textual portions of the image.

The text included with the image does not explain, elaborate or corroborate the explicitly sexualized meanings of the image. In fact, the text''s message is one of social justice, brotherhood and anti-violence; meanings that are quite notably absent in the image alone.

However, in order to really critique the image, "look," and clothing line we also must ask who benefits economically and symbolically from the Cross Colours line?

Questions for Consideration:
(there are no right or wrong answers here, just ideas to explore!)

How does the image alone want you, its viewer, to understand the clothing line Cross Colours?

How does the text alone want you, its viewer, to understand the clothing line Cross Colours?

When a Cross Colours garment is worn, which--if any-- of these meanings is also worn?

 

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